Dance shawl with ribbonwork made by Josephine Parker (Wichita), Oklahoma History Center

Ribbon work is an appliqué technique for clothing and dance regalia among Prairie and Great Lakes indigenous peoples. Deb Haaland wore a ribbon skirt made by Agnes Woodward for her 2021 swearing in ceremony as US Interior Secretary.[1]

History

Silk ribbons, brought to North America by European traders, inspired a new, uniquely North American art form. Mi'kmaq people created ribbon appliqué as early as 1611. In 1789, the regime of the French Revolution decreed that clothing should be plain, so silk ribbons fell out of fashion in France and were exported to North America.[2] Those who traded furs with the French are most known for their ribbon work, mostly worn by indigenous peoples of the plains such as; Métis, Ojibwe, and Cree, but the practice has spread to many others. Initially, layers of ribbons were sewn on the edges of cloth, replacing painted lines on hide clothing and blankets.[3] By the close of the 18th century, indigenous seamstresses created much more intricate appliqué ribbon work designs.[3]

Description

Simple, rattlesnake design ribbon work on skirt by Ardina Moore (Quapaw-Osage)

The ribbons are layered on top of each other with pieces cut out to create optically active designs from both positive and negative space. The ribbons' edges are sewn with needles and cotton thread[4] – later, with nylon thread. Designs and colors may be significant to particular clans. Specific patterns are passed from mother to daughters within families.[4] Design elements can include floral designs, diamonds, stepped diamonds, crescents, hearts, circles, and double-curves.

Today ribbon work can be seen on dance regalia at ceremonies and powwows. Ribbon work is applied to both men's and women's clothing and is incorporated into leggings, skirts, blankets,[3] shawls, breechclouts, purses, shirts, vests, pillows, and other cloth items.

National Ribbon Skirt Day

In Canada, under a 2022 Act of Parliament, National Ribbon Skirt Day is held on 4 January.[5] Its basis was when a student was told it was not 'formal wear' for school.

See also

  • Dush-toh, Caddo women's ribbon headdress

References

  1. ↑ Golden, Hallie (2021-03-23). "'She's representing all of us': the story behind Deb Haaland's swearing-in dress". the Guardian. Retrieved 2022-04-28.
  2. ↑ Dubin, Lois Sherr (1999). North American Indian Jewelry and Adornment: From Prehistory to the Present. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1999: 227. ISBN 0-8109-3689-5
  3. 1 2 3 Berlo, Janet C. and Ruth B. Phillips. Native North American Art. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1998: 97-8. ISBN 978-0-19-284218-3.
  4. 1 2 Penney, David W. Native Arts of North America. Paris: Terrail, 1998: 62-3. ISBN 2-87939-190-3.
  5. ↑ FRANCIS, Jennifer (23 December 2022). "National Ribbon Skirt Day bill passed, to be celebrated on Jan. 4". Canadian Broadcasting Company. Retrieved 26 December 2022.
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