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| Born | May 27, 1981 Tehran, Iran | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Education | Bachelor of Physical Education/Master Degree in Physical Education Management | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation(s) | Rock climber, Head Coach of Iranian climbing team for 9 years, Asian and IFSC Chief route setter | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 177 cm (5 ft 10 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 61 kg (134 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Medal record
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| Updated on 11 Dec 2014. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has specialized in both competition climbing (lead and bouldering), and outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. He has been climbing for 30 years as a professional climber, a member of the Iranian National climbing team for many years, as a route setter in many national, continental, and world cups and championships, and Head Coach of the Iranian National climbing team for 6 years.[1][2][3][4] He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.
Biography
Artimes was elected as one of the five members among competition climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league's statute.[5][6][7] Then, he participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club's representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France.[8][9] As he truly is well known for lead climbing, he also solo climbed two routes.[10] Currently, Artimes and Amin Abbasi are the only Iranian Continental route setters.[11] He became IFSC JUNIOR Route setter in 2019 and Asian Chief Route Setter. He also became International Route Setter in 2020.He is only Iranian International Route Setter.
Positions
Here are some positions he has held:
- 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2009 – Tehran League founding member
- 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
- 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2017 — Member of Sport Department ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council
- 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
- 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
- 2020 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2020 — IFSC International Route Setter – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
- 2021 — Member of Route Setting Commission of IFSC – International Sport Climbing Federation 2021
- 2021 — Member of Route Setting Commission of ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council.
- 2021 — Chair of Coaching Commission Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation
Coaching
Coaching certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
- Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1
Coaching experience
| Gym | Time |
|---|---|
| Emam Ali University | 2003-2006 |
| Army | 2005-2006 |
| Davoudi | 2005-2008 |
| Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym | 2005-current |
| ArmenianClimbing Gym Sipan | 2012-current |
| Payam Climbing Gym | 2015-current |
| Raspina Welness Climbing Gym | 2016-2018 |
| MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Head Coach | 2014-current |
Route setting
Route Setting certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
- ACC of IFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter
- Member of Sport Department ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council 2017
- IFSC Junior – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
- IFSC International Route Setter – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
- Member of Route Setting Commission of IFSC – International Sport Climbing Federation 2021
- Member of Route Setting Commission of ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council 2021
- IFSC International Chief Route Setter – International Sport Climbing Route Setter 2023
Route setting experiences
- Chief Route Setter[5]
- 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
- 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship
- 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
- 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
- 2011 – Route Setter–IFSC Master Cup international Competition
- 2013 – Route Setter– IFSC Asian Championships Tehran, Iran
- 2015 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Malaysia
- 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Iran
- 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Munich, Germany
- 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Tehran, Iran
- 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championship Innsbruck, Austria
- 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Cup Wanxianchan, China
- 2018 – Route Setter – IFSC World university Championships Slovakia
- 2018 – Route Setter – 18th Asian Games Palembang, Indonesia
- 2018 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Totori, Japan
- 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup bouldering Munich, Germany
- 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC China open Guanzhuo, China
- 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Combined Chongqing, China
- 2019 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Bengaloru, India
- 2020 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Moscow, Russia
- 2021 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championships Voronezh, Russia
- 2022 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Munich, Germany
- 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF National Championships Tehran , Iran
- 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championships Seoul , Korea
- 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF Training Camp Tehran , Iran
- 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian K Championships Jamshedpur , India
- 2023 – Chief Route Setter – Chinese Team Training Camp Beijing ,China
- 2023 – Chief Route Setter – Asian Games Test Event Hangzhou ,China
- 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF National Championships Tehran , Iran
- 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC YOUTH WORLD CHAMPIIONSHIP Seoul , Korea
- 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF Training Camp Tehran , Iran
- 2023 – Chief Route Setter – 19th Asian Games Hangzhou ,China
Judging
Judging certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing National Judge
Iran National Team memberships
- Junior National Team
- 1999
- National Team
- 2003
- 2004 – China, Asian Championship
- 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
- 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
- 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
- 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup
Ranks and medals
IFSC Climbing Worldcup
| 2009 | 2007 | |
|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 29 | |
| Lead | 26 |
UIAA Asian Championships
| 2005 | 2006 | |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 19 | 10 |
Fajr championships
| 1998 | 2002 | 2006 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 3 | 2 |
National championships
| 2002 | 2006 | |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 1 |
Tehran Province championships
| 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Lead | 2 |
Tehran Province League
| 2010 | 2011 | |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 1 |
Groups Cup
| 2000 | |
|---|---|
| Lead | 2 |
Solo
- Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, first ascent
- Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, first ascent
Climbing
Here are some of his Tops & First Ascent climbs:
| Year | Name | Grade |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 | Mashallah | 7c |
| 1999 | Alen | 7b+/7c |
| 2000 | Iran Gate (SA) | 8a+ |
| 2001 | Safeh | 8a |
| 2002 | Ghoul | 7c+ |
| 2002 | Nemat | 7c |
| 2002 | Speed(FA) | 7c |
| 2002 | Ashiane(FA) | 8a |
| 2003 | Iran(FA) | 7c+ |
| 2004 | Iran Swiss | 8a |
| 2005 | Khashol(FA) | 7c |
| 2006 | Khoke chamosh(FA) | 7c |
| 2007 | Ashianedoe(FA) | 8a |
| 2009 | Solo(FA) | 8a+ |
| 2010 | Tehran Guy(FA) | 7c |
| 2011 | Father & Son(FA) | 7b+ |
| 2018 | Marmolak | 8a+ |
| 2018 | Bargrizan | 8a |
| 2018 | Ghij | 7c+ |
| 2018 | Shahin(Flash) | 7c |
| 2018 | Push your must(FA) | 7c+ |
| 2018 | Pishadul(FA) | 7c+ |
| 2019 | Vampire(FA) | 8b+ |
| 2019 | Grezzly (FA) | 8b |
| 2019 | Colony(FA) | 8b+ |
| 2020 | Sourkhpoost(Indian) | 8a+ |
| 2020 | Gladiator | 8b+ |
| 2020 | Merry Jain (FA) | 8a+,8b |
| 2020 | Karimz(SA) | 8b+ |
| 2021 | Blue(TA) | 8a |
Roc Trips
- Petzl 2008
- Petzl 2009
- Petzl 2014
Filmography
- Mashalla[10]
Route
Here are some of the routes he bolted:
| Year | Name | Grade |
|---|---|---|
| 2006 | Khashol | 7c |
| 2006 | Pichol | project |
| 2007 | Khoke chamosh | 7c+ |
| 2009 | O+ | 7c |
| 2008 | Solo | 8b |
| 2008 | Toxic | 8a+ |
| 2009 | Emperor project | ? |
| 2010 | Tehran guys | 8a |
| 2011 | Gladiator | 8b+/8c |
| 2011 | Father and Son | 7c |
| 2013 | Vampire | 8b+ |
| 2014 | Ati | 7b+ |
| 2018 | Colony | 8b+ |
| 2018 | Pishadul | 7c+ |
| 2019 | Surkhpoost (Indian) | 8a |
| 2020 | Merry Jain | 8a+/8b |
| 2020 | Kingdom | project |
References
- 1 2 3 4 "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 3 4 "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 9 December 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 3 4 "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 3 "آخرین نتایج مسابقات جهانی تا این لحظه". Binalood. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 3 "Saeid Jaryani won the 5th round of Tehran's climbing league". Iran Mountain Zone. 15 December 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Iran Mountain Zone. 23 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Alpine Cub of Iran. 21 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 3 "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Iran Mountain Zone. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 3 "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Alpine Climb of Iran. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 "Mashalah {7C}". Mandis Tafreshian. 23 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 "Officials Resources". IFSC-Climbing.org. 7 August 2014. Retrieved 1 November 2014.
- 1 2 "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". Digital Rock. 23 September 2005. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". Digital Rock. 29 October 2006. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". IFSC Climbing. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- 1 2 "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006 Startlists". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "Ergebnis: Lead-Weltcup in Qinghai (CHN) - Herren". Ergebnis. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "Re: 20070811青海世界盃最新成績公告". mountaineering.org.tw. 15 August 2007. Archived from the original on 14 October 2015. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "IFSC Lead World Cup – Qinghai(CHN) 2007" (PDF). ffme. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "UIAA Asian Championship Iran 2005". IFSC and DR. 24 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men's category came to its end". Iran Mountain Zone. 24 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "TMU club fixed in its place at the top of Tehran Climbing League". Iran Mountain Zone. 9 July 2011. Archived from the original on 2 October 2012. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- ↑ "Roctrip im Zillertal: Zwischen Kuhglocken und Ultimate Route". klettern. 29 August 2008. Archived from the original on 19 April 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
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