Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1990-12-31) December 31, 1990
Innsbruck, Austria
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight63 kg (139 lb)
Websitehttps://www.jakob-schubert.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Three times World Cup (lead) winner (2011, 2014, 2018)
  • Four times World (lead) Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023)
  • Most men's IFSC Gold Medals
First ascents
  • Companion of Change (9a+, 2015)
  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten (9a, 2016)
  • B.I.G. (9c, 2023)
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Austria
Olympic Games
Bronze medal – third place2020 TokyoCombined
World Championships
Gold medal – first place2012 ParisLead
Gold medal – first place2018 InnsbruckLead
Gold medal – first place2018 InnsbruckCombined
Gold medal – first place2021 MoscowLead
Gold medal – first place2023 BernLead
Gold medal – first place2023 BernCombined
Silver medal – second place2011 ArcoLead
Silver medal – second place2016 ParisLead
Silver medal – second place2019 HachiōjiBouldering
Silver medal – second place2019 HachiōjiCombined
Bronze medal – third place2019 HachiōjiLead
World Cup
Winner2011Lead
Winner2011Combined
Winner2012Combined
Winner2013Combined
Winner2014Lead
Third place2015Lead
Second place2016Lead
Second place2016Combined
Winner2018Lead
Winner2018Combined
World Youth Championships
Gold medal – first place2007Youth Lead
Gold medal – first place2008Juniors Lead
Gold medal – first place2009Juniors Lead
Silver medal – second place2005Youth Lead
Silver medal – second place2006Youth Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place2022 MunichCombined
Bronze medal – third place2010Lead
Bronze medal – third place2013Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place2017Lead
Updated on August 5, 2021.

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is one of only a handful of climbers in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) route.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[2]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[3]

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.[4]

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics[5] where he won Bronze.

Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport,[6] and he followed that up by winning the combined event which qualifies him for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[7]

Rock climbing

Rankings

Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.

Climbing World Cup[8]

Discipline 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 26 7 4 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 6 1
Bouldering 60 65 19 3 2 - 25 23 10 9
Speed - - - - - 43 59 - - - - 59
Combined - - 4 2 1 1 1 - 4 2 6 1

Climbing World Championships

Youth[9]

Discipline 2004
Youth B		 2005
Youth B		 2006
Youth A		 2007
Youth A		 2008
Juniors		 2009
Juniors
Lead 33 2 2 1 1 1

Adult[9]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021 2023
Lead 26 2 1 5 2 1 3 1 1
Bouldering - - - - - 10 2 27 12
Speed - - - - - 110 59 - -
Combined - - - - - 1 2 - 1

Climbing European Championships[9]

Discipline 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 6 3 7 6 3
Bouldering - - 3 4 -
Speed - - 35 27 31

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead[9]

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2004Youth B11
2005Youth B11
2006Youth A3115
Total3137

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[9]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
200811
2009112
20101214
20117119
20121315
20132215
20142125
2015224
2016235
2017213
2018235
2019 1 1
2020 1 1
2021 1 1
2023 1 1 2
Total20171653

Bouldering[9]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201111
2012112
20131113
201811
2019112
2021 1 1
Total32510

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9c (5.15d):

9b+ (5.15c):

9b (5.15b):

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
  • Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
  • Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
  • Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
  • Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)[12]

9a (5.14d):

  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
  • Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
  • Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
  • Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013[13]
  • Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013[13]
  • Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
  • Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
  • Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – November 21, 2011[14]
  • Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[15]
  • Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

Boulder problems

9A (V17)
  • Alphane – Chironico (CHE) – December 21, 2023 [17]
8C (V15)
  • Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018
8B+ (V14)
  • Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed [18]
  • Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018
  • Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020

See also

References

  1. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (November 28, 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  2. ↑ climbmagazine.com, ed. (October 22, 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Archived from the original on July 23, 2012. Retrieved April 15, 2012.
  3. ↑ Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi". Retrieved September 18, 2012.
  4. ↑ "Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014". PlanetMountain.com. 2014-10-28. Retrieved 2022-09-04.
  5. ↑ "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo". LACRUX Klettermagazin. 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  6. ↑ "LEAD RECORDS BROKEN BY MORI AND SCHUBERT IN BERN". August 6, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
  7. ↑ "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern". August 12, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
  8. ↑ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  9. 1 2 3 4 5 6 IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  10. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 "Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger". PlanetMountain. 28 September 2023. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
  11. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna". Retrieved February 19, 2015.
  12. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  13. 1 2 up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. Retrieved January 5, 2013.
  14. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  15. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert – 9a". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  16. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  17. ↑ "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 2023-12-21.
  18. ↑ "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. 13 January 2018. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
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