Jonathan Siegrist
Personal information
NicknameJ-Star[1]
Born (1985-08-27) August 27, 1985[2]
Madison, Wisconsin, U.S.[2]
EducationNaropa University (BSc.)[3]
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height167 cm (5 ft 6 in)[2]
Websitewww.jonathansiegrist.com/p/about.html
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forProlific +5.15-grade sport climber.[4][5]
First ascents
  • All You Can Eat (5.15a, 2019)
  • One Hundred Proof (5.15a, 2020)
  • Nu World (5.15a/b, 2020)
  • Full Metal Brisket (5.15a, 2020)
  • Close Encounters (5.15a, 2022)
  • Event Horizon (5.15b, 2022)
Updated on 18 July, 2023.

Jonathan Siegrist (born 27 August, 1985) is an American rock climber who is regarded as one of the world's most prolific extreme sport climbers, and who has redpointed, and made numerous first free ascents, of a large number of sport climbing routes at and above the grade of 9a (5.14d).[4] Siegrist's breadth of experience at the world's most extreme sport climbing grades, means that he is often looked to for guidance regarding the grading of extreme sport routes in America.[4] While principally known as a sport climber, he has also repeated some of the world's hardest traditional climbing routes.[6]

Climbing career

Siegrist began climbing at an early age with his father Bob Siegrist, who was an established 5.13 rock climber, but only started climbing seriously in about 2004, then aged 18.[3][7]

Sport climbing

In 2009, Siegrist came to national attention when he won the Golden Piton Award in the "Breakaway Success" category.[8]

In 2014, aged 28, Siegrist climbed his first 9a+ (5.15a) graded route when he redpointed Chris Sharma's famous 2001 sport climbing route, Realization/Biographie.[9] Over the following year, Siegrist became only the fifth person in history to complete the "9a+ Trilogy",[5][lower-alpha 1] adding La Rambla, and Papichulo.[10] In 2017, Siegrist cemented his status at the 9a+ grade, with ascents of Pachamama, Joe Mama and Chaxi, all completed in one six-week trip to the famous Oliana crag in Spain.[10]

In May 2018, Siegrist came to wider attention with only the second repeat of Sharma's groundbreaking route, Jumbo Love, which was Siegrist's first route at the grade of 9b (5.15b).[11][12] In 2019, he repeated a second notable 9b graded route making the third repeat of ''La Planta de Shiva in Spain,[13] and making his own first free ascent (FFA) of a 9a+ (5.15a) route with All You Can Eat in the US.[14][15] Over the next few years, Siegrist would create several other new 9a+ graded routes,[14] and in 2022, he completed his first FFA of a 9b (5.15b) graded route with Event Horizon, one of America's hardest sport climbing routes.[16]

Traditional climbing

While Siegrist is known as a sport climber, he has repeated some of the world's hardest traditional climbs, including Sonnie Trotter's internationally famous 2007 route, The Path (5.14a R), and the even harder but less repeated route, The Almighty (5.14a/b R), by Ty Mack.[6] In 2016, Siegrist made the first repeat of Tommy Caldwell's 2013 route, Direct Dunn-Westbay (5.14a/b), belayed by his 66-year-old father, Bob Siegrist.[7]

Notable ascents

Redpointed sport routes

9b (5.15b):

  • Event Horizon – 5G Wall, Las Vegas (US) – May 2022. First ascent; gives a direct finish to his 2020 5.15a/b route, Nu World.[16][20]
  • Lapsus – Andonno (ITA) – October 2021. Third repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi's 2015 route (and Italy's first-ever 9b);[21] possible 9a+ now.[4]
  • Peruvian Necktie – Pop Tire Cave Utah (US) – May 2021. Second repeat of James Litz's 2013 route, which Siegrist upgraded to 9b.[22][4]

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Flex Luthor – Fortress of Solitude, Colorado (US) – November 2022. Third repeat of Tommy Caldwell's 2003 route, which Siegrist downgraded to 9a+, saying that it was much easier than the other 9b's he had done to date.[27]
  • Kinder Cakes – Skull Cave, Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado (US) – August 2022. First repeat of Joe Kinder's 2021 route.[29]
  • Seleccion Anal – Santa Linya (ESP) – March 2022. Second repeat of Edu Marín i Garcia's 2016 route.[30]
  • Nu World – 5G Wall, Las Vegas (US) – October 2020. First ascent, and felt by Siegrist to be closer to 9a+/b.[31]
  • Bone Tomahawk – Flynn Cave, St. George, Utah, (US) – March 2018. First repeat of Joe Kinder's 2016 route, which Siegrist graded as 9a+.[33]
  • Chaxi – Oliana (ESP) – April 2017. Repeat of Klemen Bečan's 2016 route.[10]

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

8b (5.13d):

Boulder problems

Traditional climbing routes

  • 5.14a (8b+) R. The Path – Lake Louise (Canada) – August 2018. Repeat of Sonnie Trotter's famous 2007 route; one of the world's hardest.[6]
  • 5.14a/b (8b+/c). Direct Dunn-Westbay – The Diamond, Colorado (US) – August 2016. First repeat of Tommy Caldwell's 2013 multi-pitch route;[41] Siegrist was belayed on the route by his 66-year-old father, Bob Siegrist;[7] also one of the world's hardest traditional climbs.[6]
  • 5.14a/b (8b+/c) R. The Almighty – Teyton Canyon, Wyoming (US) – July 2013. First repeat of Ty Mack's 2011 route;[42] one of the world's hardest.[6]
  • 5.13d (8b) R. Enter the Dragon – The Fins, Lost River Range, Idaho (US) – September 2012. First ascent, and Siegrist's hardest traditional FFA.[43]

See also

Notes

  1. 1 2 Realization, La Rambla and Papichulo has become known as the "9a+ trilogy", as they are regarded as classic benchmark 9a+/5.15a test-pieces for extreme sport climbers.[35][5] They were the first-ever three 9a+ routes that Siegrist climbed.[36]

References

  1. 1 2 "Jonathan Siegrist Sends La Rambla 5.15a". Gripped Magazine. 21 March 2015. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  2. 1 2 3 "About Jonathan Siegrist". JonathanSiegrist.com. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  3. 1 2 Miller, Leah (30 May 2012). "Q & A with Jonathan Siegrist". Climbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Potter, Stephen (18 February 2022). "Bigs Sends (and Send Advice) From Jonathan Siegrist". Climbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  5. 1 2 3 4 Fernandez, Issac (4 April 2017). "The 9a+ Trilogy, 6 climbers have climbed the 3 most representative routes" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  6. 1 2 3 4 5 "The World's Hardest Trad Routes by Winter 2021". Gripped Magazine. 1 February 2021. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  7. 1 2 3 Berry, Nathalie (20 August 2016). "INTERVIEW – Jonathan and Bob Siegrist on the Dunn-Westbay 5.14a". UKClimbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  8. ↑ Bjornsen, Kristin (10 December 2009). "2009 Golden Piton Awards". Climbing. Retrieved 4 August 2023.
  9. 1 2 "Jonathan Siegrist and Paige Claassen: Biographie and Just do It". PlanetMountain. 6 June 2014. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  10. 1 2 3 4 5 Osius, Alison (27 April 2017). "Jonathan Siegrist Sends Three 5.15's in Three Weeks". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  11. 1 2 Levy, Michael (May 17, 2018). "Interview: Jonathan Siegrist Goes Big with Third Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". Rock & Ice. Retrieved June 16, 2022.
  12. 1 2 "Jonathan Siegrist = Jumbo Love 9b". PlanetMountain. May 19, 2018. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
  13. 1 2 Osius, Alison (14 May 2019). "Jonathan Siegrist on his second 15b: "fought like hell until the bitter end"". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  14. 1 2 3 4 5 Slavsky, Bennett (2 December 2020). "Jonathan Siegrist Establishes 5.15 Full Metal Brisket in the New River Gorge". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  15. 1 2 "Jon Siegrist Sends New 5.15a with All You Can Eat". Gripped Magazine. 30 March 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  16. 1 2 Potter, Stephen (8 June 2022). "Did Jonathan Siegrist Just Establish America's Hardest Sport Climb?". Climbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  17. ↑ "Jonathan Siegrist Digs Deep for 5.15b Send". Gripped Magazine. 17 April 2023. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  18. ↑ White, Xa (18 April 2023). "Stoking the Fire, 9b, for Jonathan Siegrist". UKClimbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  19. ↑ Miller, Delaney (8 April 2023). "Interview: Jonathan Siegrist on Sending His Hardest Route Yet". Climbing. Retrieved 2 October 2023.
  20. ↑ "Jonathan Siegrist Climbs New 5.15b at 5G Near Vegas". Gripped Magazine. 6 June 2022. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  21. ↑ "Jonathan Siegrist Returns to Italy and Grabs Fourth Send of Lapsus 5.15". Gripped Magazine. 27 October 2021. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  22. ↑ "Watch Jonathan Siegrist on Peruvian Necktie 5.15b". Gripped Magazine. 9 June 2021. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  23. ↑ "Jonathan Siegrist in Spain sends 9b again, La planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario". PlanetMountain. 10 May 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  24. ↑ "Jon Siegrist Sends La Planta de Shiva 5.15b in Spain". Gripped Magazine. 6 May 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  25. ↑ "Jonathan Siegrist Sends Jumbo Love 5.15b". Gripped. May 17, 2018. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
  26. 1 2 Pardy, Aaron (12 July 2023). "Jonathan Siegrist Sends "Nemesis Route" at Céüse". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  27. ↑ Potter, Stephen (November 9, 2022). "Jonathan Siegrist Repeats 'Flex Luthor', Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade". Climbing. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
  28. ↑ "New 5.15 for Jonathan Siegrist Called Close Encounters in Nevada". 22 February 2022. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  29. ↑ Potter, Stephen (22 August 2022). "Siegrist Claims Second Ascent of Rifle's Hardest Route". Climbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  30. 1 2 Potter, Stephen (29 April 2022). ""It was the best climbing trip of my life": Jonathan Siegrist Crushes His Anti-Style in Spain". Climbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  31. ↑ "Watch Jonathan Siegrist on His New Nu World 5.15a/b". Gripped Magazine. 22 December 2020. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  32. ↑ "Siegrist Fills Up on "All You Can Eat," 5.15a FA in Nevada". Rock & Ice. 4 April 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  33. ↑ Climbing Desk (17 May 2018). "Siegrist Scores First Repeat of Kinder's Bone Tomahawk (5.15a)". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  34. ↑ Climbing Desk (17 April 2017). "Jonathan Siegrist chains Pachamama 9a+/b, the way of champions" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish).
  35. ↑ "Flor on La Rambla!". UP Climbing. 19 February 2021. Retrieved 16 June 2022. La Rambla is one of the most known 9a+ in the whole world, a real dream for generations of climbers. Together with Papichulo and Biographie, the line in Siurana forma makes the Trilogy 9a+, and it is the most repeated on the grade.
  36. 1 2 Climbing Desk (November 2015). "Jonathan Siegrist Crushes Papichulo (5.15a)". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  37. ↑ Ed. Media (March 2015). "VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbs La Rambla (5.15a)". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  38. ↑ "Jonathan Siegrist Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)". rockandice.com. 2 June 2014. Archived from the original on 5 June 2014. Retrieved 2 June 2014.
  39. ↑ Larssen, Jens (9 July 2023). "Jonathan Siegrist does Jungle Boogie (9a+)". 8a.nu. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  40. ↑ Climbing Desk. "Jonathan Siegrist Establishes New 5.14+ in the Fins". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  41. ↑ "Jon Siegrist's Second Free Ascent of Colorado 5.14 at 4,200 metres". Gripped Magazine. 8 September 2016. Retrieved 19 July 2023.
  42. ↑ Pohl, Bjorn (24 July 2013). "The Almighty, 8b+/c trad by Siegrist". UKClimbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  43. ↑ "Jonathan Siegrist frees his Algorithm 9a at the Fins, USA". PlanetMountain. 19 September 2012. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
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