Culture

Protective hairstyles, including various forms of braids, hold significant cultural importance in African history, with their origins tracing back thousands of years. These hairstyles are not only a reflection of aesthetic preferences but also carry deep cultural symbolism. Intricate patterns and styles in braiding often symbolize strength and creativity within African tribes and communities. Historically, braids served as distinguishing markers of tribal affiliation and were indicative of an individual's wealth, religious beliefs, age, marital status, and ethnicity.^[7]

In contemporary contexts, braids and similar hairstyles continue to be significant, often viewed as rites of passage and modes of self-expression, particularly among women of color.^[8] However, issues of hair discrimination and bias present challenges. Globally, women often feel compelled to alter their natural hairstyles to conform to societal norms, especially in professional settings. This includes changing hair from its natural state to styles perceived as more acceptable, such as straightening curly hair for job interviews.^[9]

Slavery

At the wake of slavery, many women and men from Africa were forced to shave their heads, stripping them of not only their hair but also their culture and humanity. Before that, many slaves used their braiding hairstyles as maps of the land and shortage for small grains and nuts. With this, many laws were created to prohibit braids and other cultural and protective hairstyles. These laws were not overturned until the Black Power Movement in the 60s and 70s. Even after the laws were overturned, many still faced discrimination due to their hair type and hairstyles. This had stripped many people of the use of their braids as a form of culture to the use of braids as function; to keep hair manageable. Many styles were simplified and sometimes they were a struggle to maintain, not having proper access to products and tools. This led to many people using substances like kerosine to moisturize their hair. Later cultural movements would brings back this sense of culture in wearing these protective hairstyles. The word nappy has been used to reference the "frizzy texture" of African American hair since the 1880s.^[10][11]

Braids and cornrows were also used to escape slavery. Since slaves were not allowed to learn how to read or write, another methods of communication was necessary. Thus, came the use of cornrows to draw out maps and pass messages to escape slavery. This method was even used within the Underground Railroad. Additionally, rice and seeds would be woven into the braids in order to grow food after they had escaped.^[12][13][14]

Preparation

Before using protective hairstyles, it is important to cleanse the hair and the scalp thoroughly, as most protective styles are left in for weeks at a time and cleansing rids hair of product, dirt and oil buildup. A sulfate free shampoo is recommended so as not to cause damage. It is important to be gentle while shampooing as rough washing can cause friction and lead to breakage. To prevent water damage and restore oils and moisture into the hair after washing, the next necessary step is to use a deep conditioner and sometimes a leave in conditioner. These conditioners can be paired with additional oils to ensure healthy hair and minimize breakage before, during and after using protective hairstyles to manage hair.^[15]

Maintenance

After the hair is installed, there are many ways to maintain the health of the hair and the style. One of these ways are to wrap hair before sleeping in satin or silk as to minimize friction and frizz created from bedding. A lightweight hair gel can also be added while wrapping hair to further reduce the creation of frizz and flyaways. With the scalp being exposed, it is very important to clean it periodically with shampoo diluted with water. After this and throughout wearing the hairstyles, it is necessary to moisturize the scalp after washing and moisturize the hair regularly. This can be done with many types of oils and leave in conditioners.^[16][17]

Protective Hairstyles and Travel

The adaptability of protective hairstyles becomes particularly relevant for travelers transitioning between diverse climates. Changing weather conditions can pose various challenges to hair health. In colder climates, dry and frigid air increases the risk of hair breakage and dryness, while warm and humid conditions can lead to frizz and discomfort. Protective styles such as wigs, braids, twists, and updos with scarves offer practical solutions for these challenges, combining adaptability, ease of maintenance, and style. Wigs provide versatility, braids like box braids and cornrows protect natural hair from the elements, twists offer chic styling options, and scarves in updos add both protection and fashion flair in varying climates.^[18]

Maintenance and care of hair also vary depending on the climate. In colder regions, focus on hydration and protecting the ends from breakage is essential, whereas, in warmer climates, using products to combat humidity and keeping the scalp clean becomes a priority. These considerations are vital for travelers who wish to maintain healthy and stylish hair while adapting to different environmental conditions.