Emperor Duzong of Song dynasty, wearing round collar robe.

The Round collar robe, also called yuanlingpao (Chinese: 圆领袍; Chinese: 圓領袍; pinyin: yuánlǐngpáo; lit. 'round collar robe') and yuanlingshan in China, danryeong (Korean: 단령; Hanja: 團領; RR: danryeong; Korean pronunciation: [dallyeong]; simplified Chinese: 团领; traditional Chinese: 團領; pinyin: tuánlǐng; lit. 'round collar') in Korea, was a style of paofu, a Chinese robe, worn in ancient China, which was long enough to cover the entire body of its wearer.[1] The Chinese yuanlingpao was developed under the influences of the Hufu worn by the Donghu people and by the Wuhu (including the Xianbei).[2][3]: 317 [4]: 183–186  Depending on time period, the Chinese yuanlingpao also had some traces of influences from the Hufu worn by the Sogdian.[5] The Chinese yuanlingpao continued to evolve, developing distinctive Chinese characteristics with time and lost its Hufu connotation. It eventually became fully integrated in the Hanfu system for the imperial and court dress attire. Under the influence of ancient China, the Chinese yuanlingpao was adopted by the rest of the East Asian cultural sphere.

History

China

Xianbei people wearing round collar robes

The appearance of yuanling collars in Hanfu, including those used in the round collar robe, occurred during the Eastern Han dynasty where clothing with round collars started to be used as an inner garment under the Hufu of the Donghu people.[6]

Later on, the clothing customs of the Chinese were further influenced by the Hufu-style clothing with round collars and narrow sleeves used in the Hufu of the Wuhu (including the Xianbei people) during the Six dynasties period,[3]: 317 [4]: 183–186  when clothing with yuanling collar started to be worn as an outer-garment and could be used as a form of formal clothing.[2]

A form of localized yuanlingpao which was integrated with the traditional Chinese characteristics of the shenyi is the panling lanshan.[7][8]

By the Tang dynasty, the yuanlingpao became a formal attire which was typically worn by men although it also became fashionable for women to wear it in some dynasties, such as in the Tang dynasty.[1] During the Tang dynasty, under the influence of the Sogdians, the yuanlingpao could be transformed into a fanlingpao.[5]

Korea

In Korea, round collared hanbok was worn with roots in hobok and Goguryeo murals show that it was worn often as an inner garment. The official court uniform called danryeong was introduced from Tang dynasty by Kim Chun-chu in the second year of Queen Jindeok's rule.[9] Since then, it has been worn as an official outfit for government officials until the end of Joseon.[9] It originated from the Chinese' round collar robe.[10] At first, the danryeong collar was circular, similar to the Chinese round collar robe but later localized into a uniquely Korean U-shaped collar also seen in the Won-sam.

Danryeong is used as a type of Gwanbok.[9] Sometimes it is worn together with the dapho.[9]

In late Joseon, under the 1884 decree of King Gojong, only black-coloured danryeong were permitted to be worn by court officials.[11]

Japan

See also

References

  1. 1 2 Wang, Xinyi; Colbert, François; Legoux, Renaud (2020). "From Niche Interest to Fashion Trend: Hanfu Clothing as a Rising Industry in China". International Journal of Arts Management. 23 (1). Retrieved 1 February 2021.
  2. 1 2 Yang, Shuran; Yue, Li; Wang, Xiaogang (2021-08-01). "Study on the structure and virtual model of "xiezhi" gown in Ming dynasty". Journal of Physics: Conference Series. 1986 (1): 012116. Bibcode:2021JPhCS1986a2116Y. doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1986/1/012116. ISSN 1742-6588. S2CID 236985886.
  3. 1 2 Dien, Albert E. (2007). Six dynasties civilization. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press. ISBN 978-0-300-07404-8. OCLC 72868060.
  4. 1 2 Migration and membership regimes in global and historical perspective : an introduction. Ulbe Bosma, Kh Kessler, Leo Lucassen. Leiden: Brill. 2013. ISBN 978-90-04-25115-1. OCLC 857803189.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  5. 1 2 Zhao, Qiwang (2020). "Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties" (PDF). 2020 3rd International Conference on Arts, Linguistics, Literature and Humanities (ICALLH 2020). Francis Academic Press, UK: 141–147. doi:10.25236/icallh.2020.025 (inactive 1 August 2023).{{cite journal}}: CS1 maint: DOI inactive as of August 2023 (link)
  6. ↑ Wang, Fang (2018). "Study on Structure and Craft of Traditional Costumes of Edge". Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Economics and Management, Education, Humanities and Social Sciences (EMEHSS 2018). Atlantis Press. pp. 584–588. doi:10.2991/emehss-18.2018.118. ISBN 978-94-6252-476-7.
  7. ↑ "Chinese Traditional Costume - Lanshan for Scholars - 2022". www.newhanfu.com. 2020-11-28. Retrieved 2022-05-18.
  8. ↑ 유혜영 (1992). 돈황석굴벽화에 보이는 일반복식의 연구 (Doctoral Thesis). 이화여자대학교 대학원.
  9. 1 2 3 4 Nam, Min-yi; Han, Myung-Sook (2000). "A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds". The International Journal of Costume Culture. 3 (2): 100–123.
  10. ↑ Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia. Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong. Cham, Switzerland: Springer. 2018. p. 116. ISBN 978-3-319-97199-5. OCLC 1059514121.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  11. ↑ Pyun, Kyunghee; Wong, Aida Yuen (2018). Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia. Cham, Switzerland: Springer. ISBN 978-3-319-97199-5. OCLC 1059514121.


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